So there I was in Singapore…this trip was purely culinary in its purpose. The idea; the Singapore government would host a group of chefs and food writers for the sheer intent of spreading the global word that they have yummy food. I was glad to oblige.
In preparation for such an excursion I began reading up on the subject as well as recording what I could on Singapore food from TV. One particularly interesting TiVo-find was an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations, Singapore.” In this episode our witty, world-traveling chef eats in the famous Singapore Hawker stalls, dines with Singapore’s own celebrity chef, Kf Seetoh and eats bone soup – yes, bone soup. All the while he is pontificating on the culinary heaven that is Singapore.
I enjoyed his video-journal of the country so much I wanted to see it exactly the same way he did. The result was an absolute and complete success. Hawker Stalls, check! Kf Seetoh, check! And yes, bone soup, check! The last, and I am not joking here, was my favorite most memorable checkmark on the list.
The hawker stalls are an amazing part of Singapore life. Singapore, to begin with, is a very western friendly country to visit; Asia-light, as I have heard it called. Most of the locals speak English as it is a national language and there is little crime for fear of the strict punishments that follow. So now imagine a tourist friendly mix of Indian, Chinese and Southeast Asian cooks lined up in a strip mall of stalls all cooking the one single dish they are best at making. The motto and philosophy here is; one cook – one dish, perfect every time because, for most, they have been making nothing but that one dish their entire lives. Add to this experience the best local knowledge and play-by-play food commentators that Singapore has to offer (Seetoh and Violet Oon) and you'll find it hard not to travel through this country like a pac-man after a super pellet.
So then there was bone soup, or Sup Tulang as the locals call it. This dish is far enough out of the box that the locals don’t eat it regularly and the guides didn’t think of bringing it to the attention of our group of locust-like chefs – I corrected them. After seeing the intriguing clip in Bourdain’s show I had to try it and hounded our tour guides until they acquiesced to find some. This dish is a masterpiece; perfectly stewed bones with succulent tender bits of meat and cartilage all in a spicy and savory/sweet red soup. The best part is the soup is served with a straw for sucking the marrow from the long slender bones, a chef’s delight! Indeed, ask most chefs and they will tell you the reason the saying goes: “Suck the marrow out of life.” is because marrow is really good stuff.
In preparation for such an excursion I began reading up on the subject as well as recording what I could on Singapore food from TV. One particularly interesting TiVo-find was an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s “No Reservations, Singapore.” In this episode our witty, world-traveling chef eats in the famous Singapore Hawker stalls, dines with Singapore’s own celebrity chef, Kf Seetoh and eats bone soup – yes, bone soup. All the while he is pontificating on the culinary heaven that is Singapore.
I enjoyed his video-journal of the country so much I wanted to see it exactly the same way he did. The result was an absolute and complete success. Hawker Stalls, check! Kf Seetoh, check! And yes, bone soup, check! The last, and I am not joking here, was my favorite most memorable checkmark on the list.
The hawker stalls are an amazing part of Singapore life. Singapore, to begin with, is a very western friendly country to visit; Asia-light, as I have heard it called. Most of the locals speak English as it is a national language and there is little crime for fear of the strict punishments that follow. So now imagine a tourist friendly mix of Indian, Chinese and Southeast Asian cooks lined up in a strip mall of stalls all cooking the one single dish they are best at making. The motto and philosophy here is; one cook – one dish, perfect every time because, for most, they have been making nothing but that one dish their entire lives. Add to this experience the best local knowledge and play-by-play food commentators that Singapore has to offer (Seetoh and Violet Oon) and you'll find it hard not to travel through this country like a pac-man after a super pellet.
So then there was bone soup, or Sup Tulang as the locals call it. This dish is far enough out of the box that the locals don’t eat it regularly and the guides didn’t think of bringing it to the attention of our group of locust-like chefs – I corrected them. After seeing the intriguing clip in Bourdain’s show I had to try it and hounded our tour guides until they acquiesced to find some. This dish is a masterpiece; perfectly stewed bones with succulent tender bits of meat and cartilage all in a spicy and savory/sweet red soup. The best part is the soup is served with a straw for sucking the marrow from the long slender bones, a chef’s delight! Indeed, ask most chefs and they will tell you the reason the saying goes: “Suck the marrow out of life.” is because marrow is really good stuff.
I love Singapore. I would even say a trip there would qualify as one of the life-marrow sucking experiences the saying I mentioned describes. So thanks Anthony for the tip, and to the rest of the world; Singapore really does have yummy food. If you want to begin visiting Asia, Singapore may just be the best place to start. Just be sure to bring an appetite and don’t forget your straw.
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2 comments:
You are so weird.
I LOOOVE Anthony Bourdain! However, much of the food he samples, I don't think I could stomach. That list now includes bone soup, it's just to red. blegh. :P
What did the other chef's on the tour think of it? Is it going on the Apple's menu anytime soon?
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